Record your surfing course in The Waves
Surfing requires good wave conditions. These good wave conditions can only be acquired by good wind or swell conditions, which can vary according to the spots (see surf sites). There are three major types of waves:
hollow (plunging) waves,
soft or weak waves (breaking),
waves of small swells (which could be described as flat).
Soft waves are the favorite of shortboarders but also of mini-malibu users. Hollow waves are the most powerful waves but not necessarily the largest. Indeed, some waves that can be described as hollow are much more powerful than a soft wave of the same size.
Practical and technical
The surfer usually lies on his or her stomach on the board, one arm on each side of the board. He paddles (like a crawl) when he spots a wave he wants to surf in order to acquire enough speed for the wave to win. When he feels the wave lifting him, he rows faster and then pushes with his hands, and leans on his arms to straighten himself forward in the right direction. At the same time as he straightens his chest, his left leg (for a regular) or right leg (for a goofy) comes to stand in front and his right leg (or left) at the back of the board. He adopts a posture bent over his bent legs. Once standing, the arms are essentially used to maintain balance and help change direction. The legs act as shock absorbers and balancers.
A regular is generally referred to as an individual who stands on the board with his right foot backwards. People standing with their left foot backwards are called goofy. The back foot is generally the foot on which you take a call when you jump. A regular surfer who puts his left foot in front will be frontside (facing the wave) on a right (wave that rolls from the peak to the right when standing on the board), the same regular surfer will be backside on a left (that rolls from right to left). For a goofy, it’s the other way around.
The most famous and popular discipline is practiced on boards from 1.50 m to 2.00 m. In competition, it consists in performing tricks whose difficulty and quality of execution determine the competitor’s score. The surfer generally tries to ride the wave parallel to its face, following the direction of its surf and preceding it. You only surf the wave perpendicular to its face at the start (take-off) to gain speed. On some sites, the power of the waves allows you to surf inside the roller. This figure, called a tube, is one of the most spectacular in surfing.
Detailed article : Longboard.
Longboarding is practiced with long, thick boards with a rounded nose. These are more stable but do not offer as much maneuverability as shorter boards. On the other hand, they make it possible to surf in conditions where the short board, because of its volume and therefore its lower flotation, could not carry the surfer.
This type of surfing, which favours sliding at the expense of the radicality of the tricks, requires a continuous adaptation of the longboarder’s position (name given to longboard surfers). When the rider feels his speed slowing down in relation to the wave, he must take small steps forward along the axis of the board (called a nose-ride, “climbs it forward”) in order to move his centre of gravity and thus increase the speed of the board and vice versa.
The size and stability of the long board allows the surfer to take very dramatic poses on the board, alone or in pairs.